Continuing American Travels

22 April – A day given over to the works of John Lautner (1911-94). When the trip was in the planning stages it appeared likely that our visit would coincide with an exhibition on Lautner in LA. Delays ruled this out. It is perhaps ironic that, while we were in LA, the exhibition was in the UK – Edinburgh.

Lautner spent 6 years with the Taliesan Fellowship in the 30’s culminating with responsibility for project managing the Wingspread house. In his own practice he designed many notable houses despite going through a lean spell in the 50’s and 60’s – probably as a result of the adverse criticism of his design for Googie’s Coffee Shop. His work was little know to the group – no longer so. His work combined progressive engineering with humane design and space age flair. We were fortunate to be able to visit a number of the houses.

The Sheats / Goldstien Residence (1963 / 89 and ongoing) was an extraordinary introduction to his work and has been featured in a number of movies. The current owner has restored the house and extended it both with Lautner and subsequently as he would have wished. It contains an eclectic collection of art and artifacts. A recent addition to the complex is an installation by light artist James Turrell in a concrete box down the hill from the main house.

The Tyler Residence (1953) has a distinctly triangular theme and was, by comparison to other houses, relatively restrained. Some interesting Wrightian detailing.

The Harpel House of 1956 (above and above right) is another based on a triangular planning grid. It as been recently restored by an owner who boasts a collection of ‘trophy’ houses, it was a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch while looking at both the hose and a spectacular view.

We then drove by the 1962 Garcia House and the famous Chemosphere House of 1960 before visiting

the Harvey House of 1950 (above and right) now proudly owned by actress Kelly Lynch (of Charlie’s Angels fame) and her film producer husband. Along with most Lautner owners our gracious hostess is determined to restore the house to its former glory undoing much damage caused by earlier owners.

We also got access to the 1960 Reiner House – a wonderfully sited and well maintained house whose owners are finding it increasingly difficult to source spare parts for the electrically opened glass picture wall which gives extensive views over LA.

The house which Lautner built for himself and his family in 1939 was, in comparison to others, distinctly restrained.

23 April – Back to the Master – Hollyhock House – built by FLW in 1919-22 for Ailine Barnsdorf. 9above left) Hollyhocks were, it seemed, Aline’s favourite flowers). Here we were greeted by our 9.30 Docent (guide) Nina from New York – an elderly and charming extrovert with a real passion for the house and its one time occupants (above right). She was a delight as was the house with stunning Living, Music and Dining Rooms. Some wonderful detailing. Sadly, many elements which once contributed to the complex have long since disappeared.

What promised to be a fascinating visit to the Malibu home and studio of Eric Lloyd Wright – grandson of the great man – was not what might have been expected. His small staff engaged in working on a selection of sensitive and ecologically sound projects operated out of a collection of trailer homes linked by roof structures which were more utilitarian than things of beauty. The site was spectacular giving views out over the coast a couple of miles away. His dream house remains in embryo – just that. A concrete shell with a roof set into the hill and landscaped awaiting cash to finish the job. We had a slightly chilly picnic and chatted to ELW – a nice and modest man with tales to tell.

Then to a very different experience a guided tour of Frank Gehry’s Disney Concert Hall in downtown LA which was completed in 2003. The highlight for Mervyn Miller was unknowingly meeting and shaking hands with the building’s designer. One wonders if the hand has been washed since! Details are much better resolved that at the Guggenheim in Bilbao and I was more impressed that I had expected to be. We were told by those who attended a concert that evening that the acoustics were good. A very showbiz building.

From the secular to the religious – Raleal Moneo’s 2002 Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. Just down the road and costing some $185M the building did not inspire externally – it seems monumental and slightly clumsy. The interior Cathedral space was something else again; the various side chapels were gathered around the perimeter along with a with display dealing with the production of the tapestries which give colour and life to the Cathedral. This space can accommodate 3000 worshippers and is (apart from what we were told were temporary and intrusive lght fittings) dignified and elegant. It has, it seems, a public / civic role and, as such, is refreshingly ecumenical. Given our background as a ‘group of building specialists from the UK’ we were given access into the undercroft to inspect the quite extraordinary measures that have been taken to accommodate both lateral and vertical earthquake movement. The huge rubber mountings were, it seemed, manufactured in the UK.

The views from the enclosed garden space were sadly compromised by the newly built High School No 9 for the Visual and Performing Arts by Coop Himmelbau. This seems like an elaborate stage or screen set for heaven knows what type of production. Mr Coop or Mr Himmelbau has much to answer for.