Book Review

Wine by Design, Second Edition (2010, John Wiley & Sons, ISBN 978-0-470-72141-4), is written by two Canadian architects, Sean Stanwick and Loraine Fowlow. Both bring obvious passion to the idea of architecture as culture and see wine as part of that same artistic realm. This second edition adds nine new and exciting wineries to the first edition and some updated text and photographs.

The authors focus on so-called ‘international star’ architects, which means that Frank Gehry with his Le Clos Jordanne in Canada and Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, , Renzo Piano at the gorgeous Rocca di Fassinello in Maremma, Santiago Calatrava at Ysios and Zaha Hadid with her gem of a tasting room at the very traditional López de Heredia Viña Tondonia feature. The authors also discover first-rate wineries designed by local architects, such as Fielding Estate by Ontario architects Superkül and Adega Mayor in Portugal by the über-Modernist Alvaro Siza. Okay, they missed quite a few others, like Calera’s gravity flow in California, but that’s a quibble.

The book is beautifully designed and the wineries are impeccably photographed. It is almost a ‘coffee-table’ book. However, the summaries for each winery, including recommended wines and winery details, are well-handled and nicely presented on individual pages. As an architect, I savour the technical terminology and the critique of each winery’s design, which are indeed excellent. I would have adored more architectural drawings: plans, sections and even axonometrics. As a Master of Wine, I find the discourse about wine production simplistic and occasionally inaccurate. And, like many wine amateurs, the authors spend far too much time waxing lyrical about photogenic barrels and cellars, and perhaps spend too little time describing the wines, the respective styles and qualities, and whether the wines fit the winery architecture and design and packaging. 

As a read, it is probably more for wine-drinking architects than for architecture-loving wine consumers. But, the book certainly captures the romance and excitement of the winery experience in many parts of the Old World and the New World, and for that it must be commended. Enjoy with a superb vintage wine.

contributed by Patricia Stefanowicz MW