Some of the other places we visited included the Valencia Exhibition Palace for the 1908 International Exhibition. The design incorporates many of the motifs and styles of previous Valencian architecture, mimicking the cathedral tower, Neoclassical facades, vaulting of La Lonja (Silk Exchange) and blue-and-white ceramic tiling. Intriguing.
Then it was off to the markets, at least the two most important. Mercado Centrale, just across the Placa from the Silk Exchange, is where the locals sell and buy the most amazing produce, meat and fish...and a few less common products, like snails.
Far more 'up-market' is Mercado Colon, just outside the old City walls. The expansion, in the latter years of the 19th century and the early years of the 20th, created an elegant-if somewhat reminiscent of turn-of-the century Paris and Vienna-neighbourhood. The decorative quality of the market is superb, inside and out.
Next, for me, anyway, was the Museo de Ceramico. The alabaster facade, designed by Hipolito Rovira and sculpted by Ignacio Vergara in the 18th century, is a tribute to Rococco at its most exuberant, or garish? Inside is a most amazing display of furniture and textiles, and, of course ceramics of all descriptions.
The intricate wall and flooring patterns were the most exciting because many of them are early examples of my patchwork patterns. In the museum they are carved and set in a myriad of marbles and granites. All the colours of the rainbow, or stone, anyway. Can't forget the Moorish influence either, since one of my absolute favourites was an Arabic fountain from the 12th century in the most beautiful of very pale sea green, dark brown and rich cream.
I rather like the rose room with exotic French-styled furniture and restrained geometric cream-and-brown flooring pattern, too.
Sunday morning was church. Although officially a secular state, Spain still holds onto its Catholic traditions. And where better than Santa Catalina, a delicate little church whose tower forms the end of La Paz?
Next, a walk around the area including another gem of a church, San Vicente Ferrer, formerly part of a Dominican monastery.
The typical Valencian blue mosaic dome and cupola have a shape reminiscent of the Moorish traditions.
Last but by no means least was a visit to the Valencian San Pio V Museo des Artes. An excellent collection of Spanish art, second only to El Prado in Madrid. Perhaps a little too much on Gothic and Renaissance religious art, but it certainly helps to put Spanish artists like Zubaran, Murillo, Velasquez and even Picasso in perspective, as it were.
Meanwhile a few images of street signs and building names.
...and a couple of less savoury artistic additions.
Last but by no means least was a visit to the Valencian San Pio V Museo des Artes. An excellent collection of Spanish art, second only to El Prado in Madrid. Perhaps a little too much on Gothic and Renaissance religious art, but it certainly helps to put Spanish artists like Zubaran, Murillo, Velasquez and even Picasso in perspective, as it were.
Then off to La Sardineria, just off the Placa de La Reina, for-what else? Sardines in two forms, one grilled and the other with a slightly spicy red pepper-based sauce. Yummy! ...and most of the crowd were locals having tipped up after church.
copyright Patricia Stefanowicz 2011
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